Saigon - Dong Khoi

Decided to take an extra day in Saigon to do laundry, book stuff, get my Cambodia visa sorted out etc. Had lunch in Cholon, the Chinatown district in Saigon at a vegetarian place - the owner of the restaurant spoke to me in mandarin about her family history in Saigon - which made me feel at home.

In the afternoon, I took a long walking tour of Dong Khoi district - the business/shopping area of downtown, riverfront Saigon. In some ways, the area was not much different than parts of Taipei or Bangkok. Department stores, designer boutiques, fashionably dressed women, upscale concept restaurants and nice hotels. It is the scene of Vietnam joining and thriving in a cosmopolitan, asian modernity - and hints at what more is to come.

Met up with Luke, a fellow backpacker I'd met in Nha Trang and another australian for dinner. We had some drinks at a nearby hotel lounge. I chatted with a tall, pretty bartender that reminded me of an old ex-girlfriend. Made me sad to have to leave for Mekong Delta the next morning.

Also finished Amit Gilboa's "Guns, Ganja, Girls - Off the Rails in Phenom Penh" a memoir about late 90's expat decadence in Cambodia. Couldn't put the book down - very lively and full of interesting insights into Cambodian society from a specific group of people.

Another book worth mentioning is Tim O'Brien's "If I Die in a Combat Zone" - an excellent companion piece to Bao Ninh's "Sorrows of War". The author recounts being drafted and fighting in Vietnam, from beginning to end never believing in the war but afraid to desert for fear of shaming his family. Particularly insightful about the brutal, sadomasochistic culture of the army - evident during his experience in basic training and then CAT (Combat Assault Training). Goes a long way to explaining Abu Ghraib. Nice references to Greek philosphy, especially on what courage really is. That any definition of courage should include wisdom and temperance.

One of the pleasures of backpacking has turned out to be the opportunity to read good books, albeit pirated, sold all over the trail for $2-3 a piece.