Cu Chi

Took a tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels - about an hour outside of Saigon. During the American-Vietnam war, US bombers dropped about a ton of bombs per person there, including one of the highest concentrations of agent orange, converting lush forests and paddies into an ashened, cratered wasteland.

The people there who consisted of rice farmers and peasant people, were essentially forced to go underground and live in the tunnels - which also became an important part of the Vietnamese resistance. The tunnels, which run approximately 200km in total were dug with nothing more than a hand hoe and bamboo basket for removing the earth. There were small medic facilities, kitchens, living quarters, ammo dumps, and networks that extended into the Saigon River for quick escapes.

I went down to one of the tunnels (enlarged and paved over for the comfort of fat-assed western tourists) and was exhausted after just crawling 100 meters. The air was dank, and it was hard to breath. Its incredible to imagine families living in the tunnels for years, even babies were born down there.

Our congenial guide had served in the South Vietnamese air force during the war. He also studied in San Francisco on scholarship for a year when he was 19, in 1972. He said he was treated well by the hippies there and has fond memories of Lombard drive. He pointed out that in 1980's, Vietnam was rated as one of the 10 poorest countries in the world. Today, they want nothing more but to be friends with nations around the world and get their help in catching up. Saigon is bustling today - I can't help but think they've come a long way in a short amount of time.

I also visited the Fine Arts Museum, which was eerily deserted. The building was pretty, though run down, done in a neoclassical style w/ asian characteristics - presumably by the French. Most of the art were propaganda themes run through recent movements (cubism, pointilism, fauvre etc).

Met up with Catherine, another Geekcorp volunteer stationed in Saigon, for dinner. It was nice to see the person behind the voice and share our war stories on the project.