Full Moon Party

I'm currently back in Koh Samui, waiting for a flight back to Bangkok.

Last night, a group of us from the Coco Garden Guesthouse, next to my bungalow went to the Full Moon Party in Hat Ring, Koh Phang Nang. We were joined by 2 american girls I'd met in Phnom Penh, an australian labor organizer on holiday who wore the most outrageous pants I've seen for the occasion, Renault - a Belgian who loves "musique afrique", a friendly, though taciturn Scotsman, and Tomoko, the travel agent on a mission to "do nothing" from Japan. On a packed beach, there were travellers from from around the world, getting down under the glow of a full moon. Each bar on the beach was pumping their own music and the styles varied from psychedelic trance, drum n base, house, hip hop, r n b. People danced from 10pm last night until 2pm today. I ended up leaving early since I was fighting a cold - which my anti-biotic is starting to beat. The full moon party has become a cliche - but it was fun nonetheless.

In the last 2 days, I managed to get a cold, scrape up my leg falling off a motorbike, get gouged by the rental shop who wanted 11000 bhat for a few scratches on the bike (10000 baht = $250). They had my passport so it was a difficult position to be in - but I managed to bring it down to around 5000. Still a hefty amount considering the repairs would cost no more than 1000 baht at the most. I seemed to unnerve the bike shop manager by suggesting he was accumulating a good amount of future negative karma. We did managed to see a monastary on a hilltop and then spend a few hours in a herbal traditional sauna at another temple that would have been otherwise inaccessible. Nonetheless, I've resolved to be through with renting motorbikes. I saw a lot of people on the island with casts, crutches and bandages from accidents.

I had a strange dream the other night. I was back in New York City, wandering like some ghost. I'd found my old bedroom - but didn't recognize it. Inside, it was overgrown with weeds and plants from neglect. I remember walking around classrooms, presumably from my old college. In one classroom, I heard a sound like a sea monster bellowing being put through a ton of reverb effects - I realized they were playing a video from a concert from my old band from college. It was the end of one of our songs, and I recognized my guitar part being punctuated by Erik's rising drum cadence. I noticed it was a class on Beethoven, and I asked one of the students why they were playing concert footage from our band. The student replied "because it is about personal expression".

Koh Tao/Koh Phang Nhang

Ended up in Koh Tao island just for a night before leaving for Koh Phang Nhang - I should have stayed longer in Koh Tao but I wasn't planning to dive and the place seemed a bit crowded.

Koh Samui had nice beaches but the island was a little too built-up for my tastes. Plus, there weren't many options at night if you are not into the rented Thai girlfriend/go-go bar scene - (which isn't my cup of tea). You see a lot of white men walking around with their Thai girls picked from the gogo bars. Ironically, the imagery on the surface isn't much different than home - where the white guys are all over asian girls like white on rice. I wonder how many of these guys would have a chance if there was no monetary transaction involved. There were few Thai tourists to be seen, which for me is always a bad sign.

Koh Phang Nang is a bit more rustic - and less developed - though I haven't seen Hat Rin yet, where the notorious full moon beach party is to be held in 2 days. I'm sharing a bungalow near Tong Salat port with an Isreali I met in Koh Tao - who couldn't stop singing the praises of Koh Phang Nhang. Today, I took a motorbike tour with a Japanese girl I'd met at the guest house next door, and we checked out beaches and waterfalls on the western side of the island.

Got some good reading done since all there is to do is to lie on the beach, or swim. Finished Francois Bizot's "The Gate" which is a memoir by the only european to survive captivity by the Khmer Rouge. Incredibly gripping account of his intellectual duels under captivity with "Douch", the man who was to run the S-21 death camp, and then the harrowing experience of trying to coordinate the safety of the international community seeking shelter in the French Embassy during the fall of Phnom Penh to the Khmer Rouge.

There's an interesting quote from the book about the American involvement in Cambodia during the advent of the Khmer Rouge that has some truth for American involvement in Vietnam or Iraq:

"When the Americans arrived in Cambodia, I saw them as allies in my impossible quest. But their irresponsibility, their colossal tactlessness, their inexcuseable naivety, event their cynicism, frequently aroused more fury and outrage in me than did the lies of the Communists."

A similiar theme is reflected interesting enough in Graham Greene's "The Quiet American". Apart from the entertainment value of a good yarn, I found the novel to harbor reductive, caricatured notions of the "Orient" and is problemmatic, in its portrayal of Phuong another voiceless, exotic plaything for the white man.

Koh Samui

A bit of panic this morning when my crazy minibus driver took off w/ my backpack before I'd gotten back from checking out a guesthouse. Luckily, the driver had the good sense to drop it off later - after I'd freaked out and gone to the local police. It was stressful thinking about spending the next few days with no change of clothes. Next time, I'm not letting it out of my sight for sure.

I arrived in Koh Samui this morning after an overnight train from Bangkok. The train system in Thailand is pretty good I have to say, though the 2nd class sleepers w/o AC was a bit hot. Ended up sharing a train car with 2 people I'd run into in the Mekong.

The island is a bit on the commercial side, but its got green mountains, calm turquoise waters, white sand. It will be a change switching from travelling primarily as a cultural experience to something more of a sun/sea holiday.

Bangkok

After a backbreaking mini-bus ride to the Thai border from Siem Riep (we're talking dirt roads w/flooded potholes), we changed to a German made double decker bus for a smooth cruise to Bangkok. I've heard tales of people having to change buses 9 times in Cambodia due to breakdowns. We got lucky - thought the total travel time of 11 hours is far more than the 6 touted in Siem Riep.

The difference is immediately noticeable across the border. In Cambodia, limbless beggars and dirty children hawking postcards and trinkets abound - while Thailand certainly has poverty, a good number of the people seem to live a middle class lifestyle surrounded by modern amenities. Its interesting to note that Thailand was the only country in southeast asia to never be colonized by western imperial powers - and today is doing much better than its neighbors (Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia).

Its nice to be back in Thailand, land of smiles and friendly people. Found a room near Khao San on Rambutree. Many are put off by Khao San as a notorious backpacker ghetto (a la "The Beach") - but I found its conveniences, my second time around, comforting. You can get your laundry done, buy CD's, cloths, see the latest pirated films, book travel plans, see familiar faces from your travels, get drinks, cheap food and budget digs.

I took the afternoon to walk around Siam Square and the nearby shopping/entertainment complexes. Shopping options in Bangkok must be up there with Hong Kong and Japan these days and has certainly surpassed Taipei. Got a haircut for $5 and a pair of designer jeans for around $10. I toured all the sites last time around so now I'm just enjoying the city as a convenient transit point.

Angkor

I've come to my last day in Angkor, the ancient capital of Cambodia. About 1000 years ago, traders from China to the middle east once sang of "Cambodia the rich and noble" and it is not hard to imagine why based on this "city as temple". In light of recent warfare, tragedies, colonialism, Angkor is a testament to the once great genius of Khmer culture and power.

Angkor Wat is sublime - something to be seen and experienced. Angkor Tom, the Bayon, Bantei Srei, are all amazing amongst other gems. Someone once remarked that Buddhist iconography are most intelligently and most tastefully realized in Angkor and I think I would have to agree. In some ways, they surpass many of europe's architectural achievements from the same period (800-1400 ad). Truly one of the great man-made wonders of the world.

I've been exploring angkor with an english couple, an english girl and a canadian - who are all taking a year off to travel. They've been good company. We stayed at the Smiley Guesthouse, recommened in the guidebook but not mentioned was that it was surrounded on both sides by brothels.

The wine, cheese, and bread picnic near Angkor Tom was a memorable way to end our temple soujourn together. Tomorrow, I'm off to Bangkok to prep a southern Thailand trip.

S-21 - Touk Sleng

In 1979, after Vietnamese troups successfully invaded Phnom Penh to throw out Pol Pot, 2 Vietnamese journalists walked by what seemed to be a school complex and was struck by an overwhelming stench. What they discovered inside shocked them beyond comprehension - they had stumbled upon S-21, a secret facility kept by Pol Pot's regime to torture and execute internal "spies and counterrevolutionaries". It became one of the worse sites of human torture and genocide in modern history - as over 10,000 men, women, children (some as young as 5) were tortured at S-21 and then executed at the Killing Fields.

I visited the school today - which has become a museum. Its an emotionally wrenching place, needless to say. I'd finished David Chandler's "Voices from S-21" recently and the experience brought the book to life in a palpable manner. Particularly horrific were photographs taken by the journalists upon entry of victims still chained to metal beds, faces blackened and bashed in from torture, a pool of blood underneath. The mug shots of people processed through the facility were also particularly disturbing - especially the fearful faces of children and young women. The exhibit is all the more relevant in light of recent events in Abu Ghraib. Our capacity for torture is dormant in all of us.

In need of other diversions, my loyal motobike driver took me to the Russian market where I bought a watch for $9, a pair of birkenstocks for $4, and a t-shirt for $2.

For dinner, I met an Isreali and a Brit at a south indian restaurant near the lake and we discussed S-21 and its indelible impression upon us.

I decided to head to the river district for drinks later - to soak in my last night in this city. I ended up at this bar called Shanghai - which initially struck me as a bit seedy but it turned out to be relatively tame. Two girls who worked there, after their shift was up, invited me to go dancing with them. At first I was hesitant - since I wasn't sure if they were professionals or not - but it turned out they were just out for a good time.

We headed to a club called U2 - I was probably the only male patron there with 2 cute, bumping and grinding girls beside me. They were a lot of fun to dance with - and seemed to know the words to all the tunes. Afterwards, they escorted me back to my guesthouse and my driver kept hinting that one of them wanted to go home with me. I opted to keep the evening perfect as it was - one of them squealed when I gave her a goodbye hug.

Phnom Penh

Arrived in Phnom Penh this evening after a fast boat from the border and a slow boart from Chau Doc, Vietnam. First impressions, the street hawkers aren't as aggressive as in Vietnam or try to gouge you 1000% over what they charge locals. The writing is a beautiful, flowing script (evocative of elf writing from LOTR). The Wats, or temples, are similiar in style to Thailand's. The streets here are full of motorbikes and cars - strangely, many business signs are also written in Chinese characters.

Some similarities are not surprising as many aspects of classical Cambodian culture were precursors to the Thais' (the classical dance, the architecture). The Thais sacked Angkor Wat and wholesale transplanted the royal court artisans and artists over to Thailand.

I'm staying at Guesthouse #9 Sister, which has a nice wooden patio that extends over the Boeng Krak lake. Lots of Mosquitoes. Had some good indian food in the neighborhood. Surprising how even south indians have managed to find their way here.

Mekong

Took a 2 day slow route to Cambodia via the Mekong Delta. Spent most of the day on the bus with occasional stops to see local workshops and also toured a river market by boat.

I've been in Vietnam for the past 3 months - so it almost feels like home now. People everywhere say I look Vietnamese. I confuse them more by answering in Vietnamese, that I'm not Vietnamese but American.

It will be interesting to attempt a new surrounding, culture and language tomorrow. Should be interesting moving from a historically sino-dominated culture into an indian-influenced one.

Saigon - Dong Khoi

Decided to take an extra day in Saigon to do laundry, book stuff, get my Cambodia visa sorted out etc. Had lunch in Cholon, the Chinatown district in Saigon at a vegetarian place - the owner of the restaurant spoke to me in mandarin about her family history in Saigon - which made me feel at home.

In the afternoon, I took a long walking tour of Dong Khoi district - the business/shopping area of downtown, riverfront Saigon. In some ways, the area was not much different than parts of Taipei or Bangkok. Department stores, designer boutiques, fashionably dressed women, upscale concept restaurants and nice hotels. It is the scene of Vietnam joining and thriving in a cosmopolitan, asian modernity - and hints at what more is to come.

Met up with Luke, a fellow backpacker I'd met in Nha Trang and another australian for dinner. We had some drinks at a nearby hotel lounge. I chatted with a tall, pretty bartender that reminded me of an old ex-girlfriend. Made me sad to have to leave for Mekong Delta the next morning.

Also finished Amit Gilboa's "Guns, Ganja, Girls - Off the Rails in Phenom Penh" a memoir about late 90's expat decadence in Cambodia. Couldn't put the book down - very lively and full of interesting insights into Cambodian society from a specific group of people.

Another book worth mentioning is Tim O'Brien's "If I Die in a Combat Zone" - an excellent companion piece to Bao Ninh's "Sorrows of War". The author recounts being drafted and fighting in Vietnam, from beginning to end never believing in the war but afraid to desert for fear of shaming his family. Particularly insightful about the brutal, sadomasochistic culture of the army - evident during his experience in basic training and then CAT (Combat Assault Training). Goes a long way to explaining Abu Ghraib. Nice references to Greek philosphy, especially on what courage really is. That any definition of courage should include wisdom and temperance.

One of the pleasures of backpacking has turned out to be the opportunity to read good books, albeit pirated, sold all over the trail for $2-3 a piece.

Cu Chi

Took a tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels - about an hour outside of Saigon. During the American-Vietnam war, US bombers dropped about a ton of bombs per person there, including one of the highest concentrations of agent orange, converting lush forests and paddies into an ashened, cratered wasteland.

The people there who consisted of rice farmers and peasant people, were essentially forced to go underground and live in the tunnels - which also became an important part of the Vietnamese resistance. The tunnels, which run approximately 200km in total were dug with nothing more than a hand hoe and bamboo basket for removing the earth. There were small medic facilities, kitchens, living quarters, ammo dumps, and networks that extended into the Saigon River for quick escapes.

I went down to one of the tunnels (enlarged and paved over for the comfort of fat-assed western tourists) and was exhausted after just crawling 100 meters. The air was dank, and it was hard to breath. Its incredible to imagine families living in the tunnels for years, even babies were born down there.

Our congenial guide had served in the South Vietnamese air force during the war. He also studied in San Francisco on scholarship for a year when he was 19, in 1972. He said he was treated well by the hippies there and has fond memories of Lombard drive. He pointed out that in 1980's, Vietnam was rated as one of the 10 poorest countries in the world. Today, they want nothing more but to be friends with nations around the world and get their help in catching up. Saigon is bustling today - I can't help but think they've come a long way in a short amount of time.

I also visited the Fine Arts Museum, which was eerily deserted. The building was pretty, though run down, done in a neoclassical style w/ asian characteristics - presumably by the French. Most of the art were propaganda themes run through recent movements (cubism, pointilism, fauvre etc).

Met up with Catherine, another Geekcorp volunteer stationed in Saigon, for dinner. It was nice to see the person behind the voice and share our war stories on the project.

Saigon

First day in Saigon, I spent touring several museums- The Ho Chi Minh City Museum, which had several interesting artifacts and photos detailing the struggle against French occupation and then the American War. Then the War Remnants Museum - which was pretty gripping, especially the tribute to photojournalists, the area housing photos of victims of agent orange, napalm, mines and the replicas of the "tiger cages" used to jail captured VC's. Torture was systemmatically used by the South Vietnamese military, with the oversight of American advisors. Many of the prisoners did not survive or were left completely paralyzed after the war. The most tragic were the photos of deformed children born with birth defects as a result of dioxin from the US defoliation campaign w/ Agent Orange. This is a continuing problem in Vietnam - millions are still affected with no compensation from the US. We waged war not just on the people but on the environment, leaving younger generations still affected.

I couldn't help but think that history has repeated itself with Iraq. This time, a key difference is the docile, complacent media and subsequently, a complete lack of confrontation by the american public with the realities of war on a people, society, generation. Neoconservatism has replaced the domino theory. I felt nauseous when I read that Kerry recently stated he would still vote for the war if he could do it again. Both parties again differ little in continuing to support the war. I feel even more nauseous when I think of all the futile, inane discussions with colleagues and friends back home who bought the Bush line into the whole adventure hook and sinker.

The shadow of the Vietnam War often looms in the back ground today in the current presidential race, yet there is a complete lack of substantive discussion on the lessons of Vietnam. The lack of acknowledgement of historical imperialism and colonialism by Europe/US is often also consistent - which is key to understanding why the Vietnamese were unbreakable, and goes a long way to explain the insurgency in Iraq.

There's a conservative undercurrent today in the media that what we did in Vietnam was right and honourable, that the peace movement was nothing more than hippies and pinkos. This is even after the publishing of "In Retrospect" by MacNamara which essentially documenting the war as a hugely misguided, tragic mistake.

On a side note, it is also interesting to note that Ho Chi Minh had initial contacts and friendly cooperation with the OSS (precursor to the CIA) in his efforts to counter the Japanese colonialists. He also repeatedly appealed to the US president, and congress for help against the French occupation - obviously to deaf ears as we were essentially in the same game as the French.

After all this heavy history, I went for a swim and a workout at a place recommended in my guidebook - it turned out to be all locals, all friendly. Had an interesting discussion with a local there about Hanoi vs. Saigon. It seems that there are still significant cultural differences and lingering resentments between the north and south. My personal impression about Saigon tells me that people seem freer here, more open.

Ate dinner at the Bodhi Tree, a veggy joint run by a Buddhist nun near my guesthouse. The staff there are poor women, men who are trying to learn a new vocation. The food was excellent.

Nha Trang

Arrived in Nha Trang, one of Vietnam's premier beachtowns, on another overnight bus.

Initially, I'd wish I stayed longer in Hoi An. But one day laying out on the beach changed all of that. The beach here is decent. My second day, I took the infamous Mama Linh's boat trip tour with a fellow traveller I'd met on the bus. The people running the boat were pretty wacky, they even had a live 'band' play after lunch (I think made up of the cook, the captain and the tour guide), using a homemade drum kit made up of plastic tubs. All in all, it was good for laughs and drinks. We checked out Guava, a bar last night and met a couple of girls from Milbrae who claimed to be from San Francisco.

Today, I signed up for a "Try a Dive" scuba trip. It was all in all really enjoyable - especially viewing the sea life up close. I ended up getting really nauseous from something (breakfast on the street? hyperventilation?) and had to sit out the second dive.

Heading to Saigon tomorrow morning.

Sorrows of War - Bao Ninh

I finished "Sorrows of War" by Bao Ninh - which is hands down one of the most profound survivors tales of war I've read. When it came out in Vietnam, it was provocative in its unsparing, realistic depiction of the war against america. A fresh alternative to the official propoganda of the time. The writer was a veteran of several fronts who was the only one to survive in his unit.

In some ways, it is more gripping and relevant than "All Quiet on the Western Front", certainly a rare gem set against the massive body of work from the American perspective. I wish every american would read it - as it humanizes the Vietnamese with subtlety, contradiction, and complexity. All the nuances you'd expect from good literature.

It is particularly poignant in its portrait of pre-war Hanoi, where gentler, artistic souls still found a home. It is also bold in its depiction of the madness the war inflicted upon the vietnamese, much of it self-inflicted much the same way that americans - who shipped out thinking they were defending against the Red hordes - found themselves in the heart of darkness, raping and pillaging and senselessly bombing a people who really just wanted to get on with their farming and run their own country.

Hoi An

Hoi An was the principal international trading port for Vietnam for centuries before Danang took it over in the last century. You could say its Vietnam's version, smaller albeit, of Kyoto. In its heyday, Japanese, middle eastern, indian, Chinese as well as european traders made ports of call here. Its one of the few places in vietnam that escaped damage from warfare. Imagine narrow streets, teeming with centuries old wooden-framed traditional houses/shops, many of which are lit up with lanterns in the evenings. There are also lots of tailors in town - so you can get jackets, shirts custom made to order for little more than the cost of the materials.

My first day, I took a tour of the Cham ruins nearby (dating from the 6th century). Cham was an ancient group of people that created temple complexes in the style of Angkor Wat (smaller in scale) that were heavily influenced by classical Hindu Indian and Javanese cultures. Unfortunately, most of the complex was heavily bombed by US bombers.

It was nice renting a bike and exploring the town the next day. I discovered that Hoi An was/is a traditional gathering place for the ethnicChinese community in Vietnam, including Fukkienese, Hakka (thats me), Cantonese communities. Its amazing to imagine that somewhere in town, there are people who speak the same dialect as people in my parents home towns back in Taiwan.

Hue

Got into Hue yesterday on an overnight 13 hour bus ride from Hanoi on the infamous Sinh Cafe open tour ticket. $22 from Hanoi to Saigon with flex stopovers - for the value, it can't be beat. Most of the passengers were local vietnamese. It was nice having my friends Michael and Thuy send me off and look after my backpack while I was trying to scramble for a seat. Thuy was lamenting it was sad to travel in the rain. Along the ride, the local girls around me kept hurling into little plastic bags. Each rest stop I would motion for them to throw it out but they'd invariably prefer to sleep.

Hue is a charming, more laid back city/town than Hanoi. People seem a little friendlier. The cyclo/xeom hawkers are still overwhere.

I went to the Citadel - a 10 km sq complex of ancient imperial court buildings, reminded me of a smaller version of the forbidden city. The strong mandarin inspired past here isn't more evident than in Hue.

In the afternoon, I took Ms Thu's motobike tour. Being the only one in the pack that knew how to ride - as I'd been tested in the roads of Hanoi, I got my own motorbike (instead of being a passenger). The drivers went fast through gorgeous countrysides - we stopped at old bridges, pagodas, and tombs of ancient emperors. Afterwards, I had drinks at Ms Thu's cafe with a few people from Ireland and Australia.

Had incredible veggy, 5 course meal in town (for only 30000 d or, ~ 2$). Hit the hay at 10pm, really tired.

Today, I read Bao Ninh's "Sorrow's of War" all morning, while waiting for the afternoon bus to Hoi An.